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Product Care

Home Maintenance - Exterior & Structural
Plumbing, Heating & Electrical
Cabinets & Countertops
Flooring - Walls & Flooring Tile
FLOORING
Carpet
Once a week, vacuum your entire carpet using very short, slow movements, about 2 or 3 strokes in each spot for maximum soil removal. Vacuum the traffic lanes more frequently.
Place wipe-off rugs on hard surfaced floors adjacent to carpeted floors. Keep adjacent areas free of dirt and substances that may be tracked onto your new carpet.
Protect your carpet from prolonged periods of direct sunlight with blinds, shades, awning or special glass.
Refer to your manufacturer's brochures for details on stain removal provided by the mill that manufactured your carpet. If a stain removal process is used which is not recommended, the warranty on your carpet may be invalid. Remove spots quickly so they do not become permanent stains.
Shampoo as soon as soil, which cannot be removed by vacuuming, is evident. Vacuum as soon as carpet is dry to remove soil loosened by shampooing.
Do not rely on foam cleaning products, as they cannot remove deeply imbedded soil. Some foam products leave a residue in the carpet that attracts and holds soil. To avoid this, conduct the following test: Dispense a small amount of foam in a shallow dish and allow to dry. If the residue is hard and sticky, the product will act the same when spread on the surface of the carpet. If the residue powders easily, the product is safe to use as a surface brightener.
Always take immediate action so that spills do not become stains. On liquids absorb as much as possible by blotting (never rubbing) with a clean, absorbent material like tissue, paper towel or sponge.
Remove pastes by scraping carefully, working from the edge of the spill to the center to prevent spreading.
Remove powders by vacuuming, do not moisten.
Don't use a liquid household detergent or soap, as these will leave a sticky residue that will cause resoiling and may damage the fiber.
If the carpet should become over wet for any reason, the carpet should be pulled up and turned face down in order for the backing to dry. If left on the floor to dry, mildew may occur.
Covering the crushed area with a damp white clean cloth and then applying heat from an electric iron that is set on medium setting to the cloth can sometimes restore crushed or matted areas. Remove the cloth and restore the pile by brushing it lightly.
For you teenagers who want to have a party while your parents are out of town: first of all don't, but if it's too late: A deep cigarette burn can only be corrected by replacement of the affected area (bummer huh). A light burn which has affected only the tips of the pile ruft might be treatable with the following steps:
Lightly rub the burnt tufts with a course sandpaper.
Rub with a clean white cloth dampened with carpet shampoo.
Brush tufts lightly to blend with surrounding tufts.
Place several layers of dry, white cloths on the damp area with a weight on top. Leave weighted layers in place long enough to absorb moisture.
Hardwood Flooring
Polyurethane and water-based urethane finishes do not require waxing.
Place throw rugs in entries, in front of the kitchen sink, and in other highly trafficked areas to avoid the accumulation of dirt.
Vacuum or dust mop on a daily basis as loose dirt will scratch your floor and dull the appearance.
Protection such as protector pads placed under furniture legs will help prevent scratches.
Wipe up all spills from the floor as soon as possible to prevent spotting and staining.
The use of cleaning products containing wax or oils is not recommended. If these products are utilized, additional finish coats may not adhere properly and the wood may need to be resanded to achieve a new look.
When floor becomes soiled, damp wipe with a mixture of one-cup vinegar to one gallon of warm water. When damp wiping, be sure to remove all excess water from the mop.
Never wash or wet mop wood floors. Excess moisture can penetrate the finish causing discoloration and warping.
When traffic patterns begin to show, your finish is worn and should be professionally reapplied. This "screen and coat process" (rough up the old finish with a fine screen and reapply a finish) is a one-day process. The necessary frequency will depend on the amount of traffic your floor receives. If the floor is too worn for the screen and coat to repair, it will be necessary to resand and refinish.
Measured in pounds per square inch (psi), a car has a load of 28-30 psi, an elephant 50-100 psi, and a 1251b. woman with a 1/4" high heel 2,000 psi! That's a problem for any floor. An exposed nail head on a high heel can exert a force of 8,000 psi! That's high enough to crush hardened concrete. It's difficult for any flooring material to resist that high of a force. High Heels can damage any flooring.
Vinyl flooring
Equip all furniture and appliances with large surface casters, glides or furniture cups.
Avoid rubber as staining may occur. Use hard plastic or glass, if possible. The heavier the furniture, the wider the base should be. Be sure all casters have a wide, flat surface.
When moving appliances and heavy furniture, use plywood or hardwood panels and "walk" the furniture or appliance across the floor.
Rollers under appliances are meant only to roll straightforward or backward.
Extreme exposure to sunlight, such as through sliding glass doors, could cause fading or discoloration. It is best to draw your draperies during periods of peak exposure.
Hot items dropped on the floor will permanently mark the floor. Heat producing appliances, such as refrigerators and stoves, may discolor the vinyl underneath them.
Floor mats placed in entries will assist in avoiding damage from tracked in dirt and grime. Avoid using rubber-backed rugs as they cause permanent staining.
Sweep, dust mop or vacuum your floor daily to remove dirt before it scratches the surface of the floor.
NEVER use undiluted chlorine bleach and DO NOT allow diluted solutions to remain on the floor for long periods of time. NEVER use cleaners with abrasives or solvents. They will dull your floor. DO NOT use steel wool. NEVER use single step cleaners / polish combinations. DO NOT mechanically buff high gloss floors.
When applying a floor finish, DO NOT pour directly on floor. Pour into a small pan and dip a clean sponge mop or applicator into a thin layer of finish. This will prevent deposits of finish from collecting in depressions. Thick applications will remain sticky and will attract dirt.
Spills not wiped up immediately may cause permanent staining. See manufactures guidelines for stain removal.
When your floor starts to look slightly dirty all over, wet cleaning is necessary.
Sweep or vacuum up all loose dirt
Mix a mild detergent with water according to directions.
Mop with a sponge mop with an attachment to squeeze out excess water.
Clean mop frequently in detergent solution and change water as needed.
Using a different mop that has not been used with detergent, rinse floor with fresh, clear water.
If waxing is required: Follow label directions. Use clean sponge mop, dipping into a shallow pan containing wax. DO NOT pour directly on floor. Spread lightly and allow to dry thoroughly.
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